Recently in Israel 2008 Category

So as I sit first in a hollow aluminum tube with a couple of jets attached to it and then a second hollow aluminum tube that sits on rails, I've been trying to reflect a bit on the last 10 days, I can never seem to sleep on planes anyways – so it seems like a good time to begin the ol' “think-er-ing”. This was definitely a very unique experience – not a normal vacaction. I definitely do feel like I got the break I needed, but I think this spring I may take a long weekend somewhere for a do-nothing kind of vacation.

Quick Thoughts:
Shwarma and Falafel = AWESOME
Goldstar Beer needs to be distributed in the States
Cuban Pork sandwiches may be slightly extra tasty when eaten ironically.
I'm very glad that leash laws exist in the States after I saw a couple of mean dogs corner a Terrier in a Kibbutz. The little dog did escape unharmed.
Restaurant Food > Hotel Food > Airplane Food (duh)
If all Wine needs for Kosher status is to be prepared by Orthos, why the fuck have people been drinking Manishevitz?
Shintzel (Fried Chicken Patties breaded with Sesame Seeds) can be anywhere from ok to fuckin' awful.

Drawn Out Thoughts

Jerusalem is acutally a real place, not just a religious pilgrim desitination. They have roads, malls, shops, bars, hotels, light rail, freeways... And yet, it is the center of so much tension. And one begins to ask, “Is this city really worth all the blood that has been shed for it?”

There were two rounds of goodbyes last night/this morning. First, we said goodbye to the Israelis we'd travelled with and those from our group who were staying longer before we got on the plane. Then goodbye to everyone else when we landed in Newark. Both times it felt very odd – I've just spent an intense 10 days with this group of people, and none of them live in Washington so it's not easy to just go hang out with anyone. The closest people are in Richmond (ironically?) and New York. And oh how many New Yorkers there were. We all said we were going to keep in touch, but I'm truly not sure whom I'll see again, and who's forever left my life. Some people I have no doubt that I will see again. For others? Perhaps Facebook linkage, or perphas not... One thing we were trying to sort out is how to handle the photo sharing situation – something I fully intend to investigate when I get back home. I also intend to do laundry. And take a shower. Oy vey I smell! And soon, I will resume the company of my beloved Poodle. Who is now shorn. I need to brush him more.

Oh and Jeff, I brought you back Bissli. Mmmm...

That wine I got all excited about bringing home? I totally left it at the last hotel. Grrrr..... That was a waste of money.

We went to Jerusalem for a day, and will be returning back there tommorrow before we leave. While there, we checked out the Old City, including the Western Wall. I've been chewing over the whole experience for the last two days, and I'm not quite sure what to make of it. In some senses, Jerusalem seems like a perfectly normal city – highways, streets, etc. It's quite nice. But there's an underlying tension that is definitely abnormal. Perhaps I'll get a better sense of the place once we return.

Tel Aviv is a wonderful place. It instantly felt familiar. I think the best comparision I can make with Tel Aviv is Miami – metropolitan, populated, on the beach, and full of Jews – albeit in Tel Aviv they're more my age then my grandparent's age. It is quite odd to go out to a bar at night, knowing that probably everyone there – from the patrons to the wait staff – are Jewish.

While here I've done some shopping, ate at some good restaurants, and walked along the Mediterranean. The hotel, however, is a shit hole. C'est la vie.

Apparently, one can purchase over 15 drinks, including shots, for under $75 US at Kibbutz bars. I made it a point to buy the first round on new years. There's something inherently gratifying about picking up the tab befo tore people can realize it – and doing it first is a great way to ensure future drinks purchased for you by others. Alcoholic dividends, I suppose (I guess it's not completely al-cohol-truistic.

I am continually struck by the similarities between Israel and California. Warm client, diverse terrain, driving everywhere, McDonalds all over...

Coffee-maker technology has seemed to escape the Israelis – everywher you go, it's instant coffee. With such devotion to the crap, it doesn't surprise me that Starbucks packed up and left.

Admittedly I haven't been going out as much as I would've thought, but that probably has a lot to do with the absence of places to go. Carlsberg Beer is fairly prevalent here – and it is quite good on tap. I shall have to remember to order it more during my next trip to the Brickskeller. I did finally get to try a Goldstar Lager, which was a dark beer. I was quite impressed.

As I type now, we're pulling away from the Galil Mountain Winery. Aside from an over the top, sexually charged, intro video – the wine was quite good. I wasn't too impressed with their Yiron blend – their flagship wine. But they had an excellent Pinot Noir, of which I picked up a few bottles.

One of the absolute best pieces of the trip is the friends I am making. While most of the people here are New Yorkers (which is really feeding a desire to move to NYC), there are at least a few people here with whom I'm fairly certain I will keep close contact. Many of the photos you see of me on here and Flickr were taken by my friend Stacy who is a professional wedding photographer. If you need wedding photos in the NYC area, let me know and I will put you in touch with her. I also know a good one in DC – but I digress.

I love open WiFi.  Especially when I'm hanging out near the Dead Sea.  Now you may be wondering - "Mike, why aren't you IN the Dead Sea?"  Unfortunately, this morning I had a flare up of a cornea abrasion I suffered 6 years ago at the hands of a USA Today.  Somehow, surrounding myself with salt water seemed like an absolutely terrible idea. 

We spent a large part of the day today at Masada.  This was probably the first time that I got to truly come up close to Roman ruins.  We watched the sunrise, discussed the history, and walked down the side of the mountain. 



A nature preserve was the next spot.  Some attractive waterfalls, and the Deer-like Ibix.  I learned that Deer are Kosher, but Ibix are not - something about hoof splitting.  Who knew?



Word has gotten around that I have a computer, and I've been able to find WiFi hot spots.  Of course, everyone has been asking to check their email.  I'm debating whether or not to charge.

I knew I had a problem when the Passport control officer looked at me and said, “What happened to your Passport?” Oh. Fuck. “Um...it kinda went through the wash...” It was either that or I sweat profusely like any Jew of Russian descent spending extended periods of time in the Carribean. A few questions in an interrogation area... “Have you ever been to Israel before?” “Do you speak Hebrew?” “How many people in your group?” And then I was cleared. Phew. International incident averted. Shortly thereafter, we were on our way!

It was onward to the Kibbutz Gezer (Carrot) for orientation, and lunch. After, we headed South past Be'er Sheva to Kibbutz...umm...not sure of the name here. I think it's Masahabim-Kaktus, but that's only because that's the SSID of the Wifi.

There's been much group bonding already – which is quite awesome. And then, there have also been COWS!!!

Who wants steak?

I will be posting from Israel whenever I have internet access. I am writing the whole time, however, so there will be some "dumps" as it were. Let's go...

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There's something to be said for Amtrak Business Class – quiet, comfortable, fairly empty. I'm currently enroute to Newark to fly to Israel – though this will obviously be posted sometime later when there's internet access.

Train tracks often run through the most rundown parts of a city – the land is the cheapest. Whether the tracks were built because the land was cheap, or the land is cheap because the tracks are there is a question not easily answered. There is a stark contrast between DC and Baltimore in this particular area – there is starting to be a resurgence in the neighborhoods along thet racks in NorthEast DC. Redevelopment at New York Avenue (though Uline Arena remains sadly neglected), the old Hecht warehouse about to be redeveloped... The same cannot be said for the area along the track in Baltimore. Rundown row houses with disheveled cars parked outside, Unkept lawns. Trash strewn carelessly about. Shattered windows in warehouses that clearly haven't been used in over 20 years.

As we ride through, I am reminded of living in Richmond. While my neighborhood was populated and well kept, there were many parts of the city that weren't just boarded up – they were bricked up, and falling down. American ruins. Same in B'more. One asks – what were these neighborhoods like 50 years ago? 100 years ago? Were they alive? Vibrant? Or were they built desolate?

The tune remains familiar as one rides up through Wilmington, Philadelphia, Trenton, and into Newark – decay upon decay, with occasional spots of renewal.

And now I'm writing on the plane itself at approximate 4:40 AM Israel time (22:40 EST).

There's a lot of waiting once I arrive in Newark. Wait to check in. Wait to go through security. Wait to board plane. I begin meeting my fellow travellers – and it becomes abundantly clear that I picked the right trip. Everyone is in their mid 20s – real jobs, real life, etc. The other group that's on our flight is full of...kids. I can't believe I just referred to them as such, but yet... (I felt really old the other day when I called the police on the skateboarders across the street from my apartment building...at 2 am).

The flight itself has been pretty decent. Except that we were automatically ordered the Kosher meal. I, for one, prefer the trayfey goodness of the goyisha meal. C'est la vie. I've made a truly valiant effort to sleep...but at first I was kept up by a “sanctimonious douchebag” a couple rows behind me telling his life story to an old woman sitting next to him. His voice, quiet annoyingly, appeared to share the resonant frequency of my bones – every word felt like it pierced as I tried, in vain, to doze. I tried the iPod – and it only served to have nasally resonance in the background of Sigur Ros. Fortunately, he finally shut up – but by that point, sleep had successfully evaded me.

Several years worth of campaigning and sleepless election days have allowed me some functionality on next to no sleep. I have sworn to myself that while I reserve the right for a nap here or there, I will not SLEEP until it is the right time – even if that means 36 hours straight of being awake. Every moment I sit here makes me wish more and more that I was the kind of person who'd gladly drop a couple k on a plane ticket so that he could sit somewhere that wasn't within 2 centimeters of the seat in front of him. But I'm also tired, so naturally I'm kinda bitchy.

On the pre-trip paperwork, it was requested that someone bring a guitar. I came very close to doing it, but then I decided to eschew being “that guy”. Sadly, nobody brought it and there was a lament at the lack of available musical instrumentation.

That Kosher meal totally didn't fill me up. I have Wasabi Peas in my bag, but sadly – I do not have a beverage with which to wash it down. Curse my taste for exotic snackfoods!!!!